FOB Price Line-Item Decoder: What Is Actually In Your Knitwear Quote

Which line moves most when I change the gauge? Machine time. A finer gauge needs more courses per panel and cannot be made up with speed, and linking is per-stitch work so it rises too. Gauge is the specification that moves the cost stack most for a given silhouette.

Why is yarn described as the least flexible line? Because it is bought from a mill at a market price, in lot sizes the mill sets. A factory can improve its own efficiency; it cannot decide what merino costs this season or waive a dye lot minimum that belongs to someone else.

Which lines are most negotiable? Usually the ones tied to choices rather than to materials: trims and branding, packaging specification, and the finishing route. They are also the lines where a small specification change can remove cost the customer will never notice.

How should a buyer compare two FOB quotes? Line by line and under the same incoterm. Two FOB numbers for the same silhouette usually differ on yarn count, spinning method, gauge or finishing - and a quote that does not break out those choices cannot be compared with one that does.

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Factories quote you FOB because that is what you ask for, and because the components inside are commercially sensitive — both to them and to the mills they buy from. But the single number conceals an internal structure that varies a lot from one program to the next. Two sweaters at 12.40 USD FOB can have wildly different underlying compositions. One might be 55 percent yarn cost with a thin margin; the other might be 38 percent yarn cost with a fat margin and a finishing process that is about to go wrong.

If you cannot see the structure, you cannot tell which supplier is offering you a sustainable price and which is offering you a quote that will renegotiate itself at PP-sample stage. The buyers who win on cost over multiple seasons are the ones who have learned to read the shape of the quote, not just the bottom line.

For a representative mid-weight men's crew, 7GG-12GG, 350-420 grams, in a standard wool blend or cotton blend, here is the cost stack most factories use internally. We are showing ranges because the exact split depends on gauge, fiber, order size, and country of origin. Treat this as orientation, not gospel.

Nothing in that table is exotic. Any knitwear factory operating at scale uses something close to this internal framework. What changes between factories is the discipline with which they cost it and the honesty with which they share it.

Yarn is almost always the single largest cost in a knitwear FOB. For a typical sweater at this price point, expect yarn to represent 35-50 percent of the FOB. For chunky 3GG-5GG styles using bulky merino or wool blends, the yarn share can push toward the upper end of that range; for fine 12GG-14GG cotton or cotton-blend styles, the share might sit closer to the floor.

The critical thing to understand is that the factory does not control yarn pricing in any meaningful way. Spinning mills set yarn prices based on fiber commodity markets, lot size, dye method, and certifications. The factory marks up yarn modestly for working-capital risk — they are buying yarn months before they get paid for the finished garment — and that markup is usually in the 5-10 percent range over mill price. There is not much fat there.

When a buyer pushes hard on yarn cost, what usually happens is one of three things. The factory quietly downgrades the yarn (you specified 100 percent merino, you get a merino-acrylic blend at PP stage). The factory shifts to a smaller, less reliable mill (and you find out at the third reorder when consistency falls apart). Or the factory holds the yarn quality and absorbs the squeeze into margin, which means next season they will not bid your program. None of those outcomes is good.

The legitimate ways to move yarn cost are upstream of the factory: book yarn earlier, consolidate yarn lots across multiple styles, accept a stock yarn rather than a custom-dyed lot, or change fiber spec. Those are buyer decisions, not factory negotiations.

Machine time typically runs 10-15 percent of FOB. This is the cost of running the knitting machine — depreciation, electricity, the operator's wages spread across the run, and the opportunity cost of the machine slot.

Gauge inverts the intuition here. A 3GG chunky cardigan knits very quickly because each stitch is large and the panel fills up in minutes. A 14GG fine merino crew can take three to four times as long on the machine for the same panel area because each stitch is small. So machine time as a percentage of FOB tends to be lower for chunky knits and higher for fine knits — even though chunky knits eat more yarn in absolute terms.

This is why two sweaters at the same FOB can have inverted cost stacks. A 3GG chunky might be 48 percent yarn, 9 percent machine; a 14GG fine might be 38 percent yarn, 14 percent machine. Both land in the 11-14 USD range, but the levers to move them are different.

Machine time is partly negotiable. If your order is large enough to fill a machine for a sustained run, the factory's effective machine cost per piece drops because setup time amortizes across more units. This is one of the real economic arguments for hitting volume bands rather than spreading small orders across many styles.

Linking is the operation of joining knit panels — shoulders, side seams, sleeves, collars — on a linking machine, stitch by stitch, by hand. It is skilled, slow work and it is the largest single labor line in most sweater factories. Expect 8-12 percent of FOB.

Linking cost rises with complexity. A simple drop-shoulder crew with set-in sleeves has fewer linking points than a raglan, which in turn has fewer than a saddle-shoulder or a full-fashioned cardigan with placket, pockets, and a shawl collar. If your design adds linking points, the labor line goes up — and unlike machine time, this scales linearly with units. There is no efficiency curve to amortize a linking operator.

Fine gauges also cost more to link because each stitch is smaller and slower to align. A 14GG linking operator does fewer pieces per shift than a 7GG operator. This is the second reason fine knits land at a similar FOB to chunky knits despite using less yarn.

Dyeing and finishing covers piece dye or yarn dye costs, washing, anti-pill treatment, brushing, steaming, and pressing. Expect 10-15 percent of FOB on a typical program.

The critical variable here is lot size. Dye houses charge minimum lot fees that get amortized across the units in that lot. A 300-piece run in a custom Pantone-matched color carries a much higher per-unit dye cost than a 3,000-piece run in the same color. If you are running a low-MOQ program in many colors, your dye cost as a percentage of FOB will be higher than the average. There is no clever negotiation around this — it is fixed-cost math.

Finishing varies with the spec. Anti-pill treatment, brushed finishes, and softener applications each add a step and a cost. A clean unfinished surface is cheaper than a brushed mohair-look face. These are buyer choices that should be made consciously, not by default.

Trims, woven labels, hangtags, neck labels, polybags, hangers, and individual packaging usually sit at 5-8 percent of FOB. This is the most negotiable line in the entire quote because the buyer controls the spec.

Three examples of how spec drives cost. A woven main label with a heat-transfer care label is cheaper than two woven labels stitched in. A printed hangtag on standard card is cheaper than a die-cut hangtag on textured fiber-flecked stock with a metallic foil. A standard polybag is cheaper than a custom-printed kraft bag with tissue paper inside.

None of these decisions affects garment quality. All of them affect FOB. When buyers say they want to cut 50 cents from a quote, this is often where the 50 cents actually lives. For a deeper view of where branding spec quietly inflates cost, see the private label packaging guide.

The last three lines are small individually but matter for the health of your program. QC and inline inspection runs 3-5 percent. Factory margin runs 10-15 percent on a typical mid-tier order. Commercial overhead — sales, sample making, accounting, the costs of running a factory as a business — runs 4-6 percent.

These are the lines that sustain the relationship. A factory running at 10 percent margin on your account is investing in your sample lab, holding capacity for your reorders, and absorbing the small problems that always come up. A factory that has been squeezed to 4 percent margin is doing none of those things; it is waiting for a better customer to come along, and when one does, your delivery dates slip.

The most expensive mistake a sourcing manager can make is to push margin until the factory stops caring about the program. That mistake usually does not show up in the first PO. It shows up in season three.

When you receive a quote, do not ask the factory to break out every line — most will not, and the ones who do will give you a sanitized version. Instead, ask targeted questions that let you triangulate the structure. There is more detail on this in the knitwear quotation reading guide, but the short list is below.

• What yarn supplier and yarn count are you costing against, and what is the assumed yarn consumption per piece in grams?
• What gauge and machine type are assumed, and what is the assumed machine output per shift?
• How many linking points are in this style as you have costed it?
• What dye lot size is assumed in the costing — does the price hold at a 300-piece lot or only at 1,000 pieces?
• What is included in trim and packaging at this price, and what would I add or remove to move the number?

These five questions will tell you more about the integrity of a quote than any line-by-line breakdown a factory might send you. They also signal to the factory that you understand the cost structure, which usually results in a tighter, more honest quote next time. For sourcing teams comparing multiple suppliers head-to-head, pairing these questions with the RFQ red flags checklist tends to surface the weak quotes quickly.

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