Men's SS27 Knitwear: Gauge, Fibre and Silhouette, Read From 37 Published Spring/Summer Styles
Actualizado 19/9/202612 min readPor Simon Liu · Licheng Knitwear
Spring/summer knitwear is a fine-gauge season, not a lighter winter. Read from 37 published men's spring/summer styles: the gauge and fibre split, why the knit polo carries the season at 13 of 37 styles, what each silhouette costs against our published index, and the two gaps our own shelf does not yet cover.
The short answer. Spring/summer knitwear is a fine-gauge season, not a lighter version of winter. Across the 37 men's spring/summer styles published in our catalogue, 12GG is the dominant gauge, cotton appears in 40 of 49 spring/summer styles across all genders, and the knit polo accounts for 13 of the 37 men's styles — more than a third. Published index medians for these styles run from USD 13.98 to USD 22.73 per piece at MOQ 30 per colour. Two things our own shelf does not yet cover are relaxed volumes and open-stitch structures, and we say so below rather than around it.
These are figures from our own published catalogue and yarn cost index, not quotations. Final cost moves with yarn lot, gauge, colour count and quantity.
The four silhouettes, and what each one costs
Silhouette
Men's SS styles published
Typical gauge
Published index median, MOQ 30/colour
Sweater / pullover
16
12GG fine, some 7GG–12GG
USD 22.73 (sweaters / pullovers)
Knit polo
13
12GG fine, some 12GG–14GG
USD 19.48 (polo sweaters)
Cardigan
6
12GG fine
USD 19.73 (cardigans)
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Fibre choice moves the number more than silhouette does: 100% cotton sits at USD 13.98, a cotton blend at USD 14.98, a wool blend at USD 17.36. The spread across every spring/summer median we publish is 1.6× from low to high, which is narrow enough to be worth planning against.
Fine gauge is the season, not lighter weight
Of the spring/summer styles on our shelf, 12GG is the single most common gauge, with 16GG appearing at the finest end and 5GG–7GG on exactly one waffle-textured style. Buyers who ask for "a lighter sweater" and keep the winter gauge get a garment that is thinner but still reads as winter. The change that actually makes a knit wearable in May is gauge plus structure, not a thinner yarn at 7GG.
If you are choosing between gauges, our 5GG vs 7GG vs 12GG comparison sets out what each one does to hand-feel, drape and cost.
Cellulosics carry the season
Across all 49 published spring/summer styles, cotton appears in 40, viscose in 9, bamboo in 7 and linen in 5. Wool appears in 2 and cashmere in 2 — as blend components for transitional weights, not as the body of the season.
This matters for booking. Cotton and cotton blends are the two lowest published medians we carry (USD 13.98 and USD 14.98), so a spring/summer programme built on cellulosics starts from a lower base than an autumn/winter one built on wool blends at USD 17.36.
The knit polo is the spring/summer silhouette
Thirteen of 37 men's spring/summer styles are knit polos — short-sleeve block stripe, herringbone long-sleeve, houndstooth jacquard, fine-rib two-button, half-zip. That concentration is not an accident of our catalogue; it is where spring/summer knitwear demand sits, because a knit polo replaces a woven shirt in a wardrobe rather than replacing a sweater.
Relaxed volumes. Of 49 published spring/summer styles, 47 are regular fit and 2 are relaxed. Buyers have been asking for oversized and relaxed volumes for spring/summer specifically, and our published shelf does not yet show them. We develop them — see oversized and relaxed knit development — but a buyer choosing on published evidence would not know that from the catalogue alone.
Open-stitch structures. Only 3 of the 49 carry an open or breathable structure: one waffle, one moss stitch, one honeycomb open-work. Pointelle, mesh and ajour are the structures that make a knit genuinely wearable in summer heat, and they are under-represented on our shelf relative to how often they are asked for.
We are publishing both gaps rather than letting a catalogue photograph imply otherwise. If either is what you need, it is a development conversation, not a shelf selection.
What it takes to book an SS27 programme
Our published lead times are the same for spring/summer as for autumn/winter: about 15–25 days for a sample from a confirmed tech pack and yarn, then 30–45 days for bulk depending on quantity. MOQ is 30 pieces per colour and style, and sizes may be mixed within that 30. Size ranges published on these styles are XS–3XL on 35 styles and XS–XL on 10.
Working back from those figures, a buyer who confirms a tech pack and yarn now is looking at roughly two to three months from confirmation to bulk-ready, before shipping. Yarn colour development and lab dips sit on top of that if you are not taking a stock colour.
*Figures in this article are read from the 49 spring/summer styles published in our own catalogue as of 11 September 2026, and from our published yarn cost index. They are reference figures, not quotations.*
12GG is the dominant gauge across our published men's spring/summer styles, with 16GG at the finest end. Keeping a winter gauge with a thinner yarn gives a garment that is lighter but still reads as winter; gauge plus structure is what makes a knit wearable in May.
Cellulosics. Across 49 published spring/summer styles, cotton appears in 40, viscose in 9, bamboo in 7 and linen in 5, while wool and cashmere appear in 2 each as blend components for transitional weights.
Published index medians at MOQ 30 per colour run from USD 13.98 for 100% cotton and USD 14.98 for a cotton blend to USD 19.48 for knit polos, USD 19.73 for cardigans and USD 22.73 for sweaters. The full spread is about 1.6 times.
It replaces a woven shirt in a wardrobe rather than a sweater, so it keeps selling when the weather warms. Thirteen of our 37 published men's spring/summer styles are knit polos - more than a third.
Yes, as development rather than shelf selection. Only 2 of our 49 published spring/summer styles are relaxed fit, and 3 carry an open structure such as waffle, moss stitch or honeycomb open-work - pointelle, mesh and ajour are under-represented on the shelf.
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